One day, I took a boat ride to San Pedro, the larger town on Ambergris Caye. A crowded beach town with lots of people, traffic and amenities (and this was off season!) further down on the island, it became a graceful area of dunes, and palm trees, with salt marshes and mangroves. They don't call this the mosquito coast for nothing, and unfortunately, a lot of this area is now being cleared for large private houses.